Ever wanted to know how hard it would be to get a 96/97 OBD II Miata thru emissions testing?

Well I'm going to walk you thru the procedure, Even though I provide the information on how to get you thru I don't except any responsibility for your actions! Deceiving emissions testing officers is against the law.

That said lets proceed.

• First you need to disconnect battery cable.
• Next you need to loosen the gas cap.
• Next put the passenger seat forward all the way and tilt the seat forward. Fold up the carpet covering the ecu.
• Unbolt the ecu and disconnect the wires remove the ecu to a bench and switch the ecu's (either link to oem or vise versa depending on going to or coming from the test).
• Reinstall the ecu. fold down the carpet reposition the seat to your liking.

Now we move to under the hood. You will have to fabricate a pipe similar to the one in the pictures (This one I got from a friend who owns a sanitary piping company.) it made from 304 stainless and all I had to do was silver solder the fittings on.

• First thing (you can do this in any order) disconnect the IC Pipe going to the throttle body. You will also have to disconnect the wires for the Air temp sensor and the MAP Sensor.
• Remove the pipe from the car.
• Install your fabricated pipe and connect the wires to the MAF Sensor and to the Power Steering Load Sensor.
• Disconnect the wires to the injector connectors (I've made my injector wiring harness with push pins instead of crimp connectors to ease the conversion process).
• Disconnect the fuel rail (Remember to wait till the pressure bleeds off) and switch the injectors, reconnect the fuel rail and reconnect the wiring.
• Replace the gas cap reconnect the battery. YOU'RE FINISHED!

At this point your finished with the conversion but you still need to drive the car for a day or two to let the OEM ECU operate thru all the necessary functions needed by the testing computer when you go to take the test.

After the test just do this in reverse order.

One other thing you may have noticed is that I don't use the electronic boost controller supplied with the FM kit. I was never really happy with the control that I was able to achieve with this device so I decided to go to a 12psi actuator can, which also simplified the conversion process by not having to deal with the modified wiring at the ecu test plug.

I personally would like to see FM do away with electronic boost controller in there kit and make all the kits with external wastegates, and use the memory saved on the ecu chip for something more important like an electric fuel pressure gauge with it's output being able to be data logged with DLL. ( That's just my thoughts).

This whole process can be accomplished in just over an hour!

I would like to thank all the people involved at FM for making the OBDII ecu possible and for making it affordable to everyone who was running the 94/95 setup.

Thanks again Bill Cardell and all the gang at Flyin Miata, and sorry for all the hassles I gave you when I found out about OBD testing in our state. I never new it could be so easy.